Scalp Health
Why Is My Hair Falling Out? Let's Actually Talk About It.
Hair shedding is normal — until it isn't. Kara Cerf breaks down the real causes of hair loss, what a scalp analysis can tell you, and which treatments have science behind them versus which ones are just good marketing.
Hair loss comes up in my chair more than almost anything else. And I get it — it’s one of those things that sneaks up on you. One day you’re cleaning the shower drain and you think, that seems like a lot. Or you pull your part to one side and it looks wider than it used to. It’s unsettling in a way that’s hard to explain, because your hair is tied up in how you see yourself.
So let’s actually talk about it. Not in a scary way, and not in a way that’s going to sell you a $90 bottle of something. Just honestly.
I want to be upfront about something first: I’m a licensed cosmetologist and esthetician. I’m an educator, not a clinician. I can do a thorough scalp analysis, ask the right questions, and tell you what I’m observing — but diagnosing what’s causing your hair loss is a dermatologist’s job, not mine. What I can do is help you understand what you’re looking at and what the research actually says, so you can walk into those conversations more informed. That’s my role, and I take it seriously.
Why Do We Have Hair Anyway?
Before we talk about losing it, let’s talk about what it’s actually doing.
Hair isn’t just aesthetic — it’s functional. Your scalp hair acts as a buffer between your skin and the environment: it protects against UV exposure, helps regulate temperature, and cushions the skull from minor impacts. Each hair follicle is also connected to nerve endings, which means hair plays a role in sensory function — it helps you detect touch, pressure, and movement at the skin’s surface.
Your eyebrows and lashes aren’t decorative either. They’re designed to redirect sweat and debris away from your eyes. Your nose and ear hair filter out particles before they reach sensitive tissue. Even the fine hair on your arms has a purpose — it’s part of how your body reads its environment.
And then there’s the part that doesn’t show up in a biology textbook: what hair means to us as people. Across cultures and throughout history, hair has carried enormous significance — identity, community, ritual, grief, celebration. The way we wear our hair says something about who we are and where we come from. That’s not vanity. That’s human.
So when hair starts to change or disappear, it makes sense that it hits harder than just a physical thing. Understanding what hair does — and why your body grows it in the first place — is a good starting point for understanding what happens when that process gets disrupted.
First — What’s Actually Normal?
Most people lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day. [1] I know that sounds like a lot, but your scalp has roughly 100,000 follicles, and they’re all cycling at different rates through growth, transition, and rest. Some shedding is just the system working the way it’s supposed to.
The question to ask yourself isn’t am I losing hair — it’s am I losing more than usual? Are you noticing thinning in places that used to look full? Is your ponytail thinner? Is your part getting wider? Is your scalp doing something it wasn’t doing before — flaking, itching, looking red?
Those are the signals worth paying attention to.
What’s Usually Behind It
Telogen Effluvium — Your Body Sending You the Receipt
This is the most common cause I see, and it’s also the most misunderstood — because it doesn’t show up right away.
Here’s how it works: when your body goes through something stressful — illness, surgery, a high fever, childbirth, a big diet change, an emotionally brutal stretch of time — it can push a large number of hair follicles out of their growth phase and into a resting phase all at once. Then, about two to three months later, all those resting hairs shed together.
So you go through something hard in May, and in August your hair starts coming out in clumps. It feels random. It’s not. Your body went through something, and your hair is just now sending you the receipt.
The good news: telogen effluvium is almost always temporary. Once your body stabilizes and gets what it needs, regrowth usually begins within three to six months. The key is addressing the root cause — stress, nutrition, whatever it was — and giving your body time.
Androgenetic Alopecia — The Hereditary Kind
This is the gradual, patterned thinning that runs in families. In men it usually shows up as a receding hairline or thinning at the crown. In women it tends to be more diffuse — a widening part, less volume at the top, while the hairline stays mostly intact.
The driver is DHT, a hormone that binds to genetically sensitive follicles and slowly shrinks them over time. It has nothing to do with how often you wash your hair or whether you wear hats. It’s in your DNA.
This type is progressive, and it doesn’t reverse on its own. That doesn’t mean nothing can be done — it means acting earlier gives you more to work with. Which brings me to the products section, because this is where it gets complicated.
Traction Alopecia — A Styling Problem with Real Consequences
This one is entirely preventable, and I see it more than I’d like to.
Traction alopecia happens when you’re putting consistent, repeated tension on your follicles — tight ponytails, slicked-back buns, braids, weaves, extensions. Over time, that tension physically damages the follicle. It usually shows up as recession at the temples or thinning along wherever you’re pulling.
Caught early, it’s reversible. Caught late, it’s not. If your hairstyle is the same every single day and it’s tight, that’s worth changing. You don’t have to give up the style — just vary it, loosen it, give your edges a break.
Scalp Conditions
A healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. Seborrheic dermatitis (the chronic, oily, flaky kind of dandruff), scalp psoriasis, and folliculitis can all interfere with the hair growth environment. These aren’t just cosmetic nuisances — they can cause real damage to follicles if they go untreated.
If your scalp is consistently inflamed, itchy, or flaking, a dermatologist can figure out what’s actually going on. That’s the right call.
Nutritional Deficiencies
Research suggests that what’s happening on the inside can absolutely show up in your hair. When your body is under-resourced, hair is one of the first things it deprioritizes.
I’m not going to list out deficiencies and play doctor — that’s not my lane. What I will say is: if you’re experiencing unexplained shedding, it’s worth having a conversation with your physician. Some doctors will run bloodwork specifically to look at nutritional factors that can affect hair health. That’s a conversation worth having, and I’d encourage you to bring it up.
What a Scalp Analysis Can Tell You
When I sit down with a client for a scalp analysis, I’m looking at things that are genuinely hard to see on your own — the distribution of thinning, whether the hair is breaking mid-shaft or releasing at the root, what the scalp surface looks like, early signs of follicle miniaturization along the hairline or part. I’m also asking questions: What’s been going on in your life? What’s your diet like? What are you putting on your scalp?
That conversation matters. A lot of clients have never had someone actually look closely at their scalp and talk through what they’re seeing. It changes things.
What I can’t do is tell you why it’s happening from a medical standpoint. That requires bloodwork, clinical tools, sometimes a biopsy. My job is to give you a clear picture of what I’m observing and point you in the right direction if something needs more than I can offer.
The Products Conversation — Research vs. Marketing
Okay. This is the part I really want to dig into, because the hair loss market is massive and a lot of it is built on hope rather than evidence. I’m all for holistic and natural approaches — but I want to know what the science actually says. So let me break it down by what we know.
Minoxidil and Finasteride — The Ones With Actual FDA Approval
These are the two treatments with the strongest clinical evidence, and they’ve been around long enough to have decades of data behind them.
Minoxidil is FDA-approved for both male and female pattern hair loss. It works by extending the growth phase of the hair cycle and widening blood vessels around the follicle. [2] About one in three users sees actual regrowth; roughly nine in ten see a slowdown in loss. [2] It’s available over the counter in 2% and 5% strengths, and now in oral form by prescription. The catch: you have to keep using it. Stop, and the benefit reverses.
Finasteride is FDA-approved for male pattern baldness. It blocks the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT, reducing scalp DHT levels by 60–70%. [3] Studies show that 95% of users experience less hair loss, and about 67% see some regrowth after six months. [3] It requires a prescription and a conversation with a provider about risks — it’s not for everyone, and it’s not approved for women.
Both of these are available through telehealth platforms like Hims and Hers. I get asked about those a lot. The platforms themselves are just the delivery mechanism — you’re getting a real licensed provider reviewing your case and prescribing real FDA-approved medications. The medicine is legitimate. Whether it’s the right fit for you is a conversation with your doctor.
Nutrafol — Real Studies, Real Caveats
Nutrafol is a supplement — not an FDA-approved drug — built around ingredients like ashwagandha, saw palmetto, marine collagen, and biotin. It does have published clinical research: a six-month, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology showed improved hair growth in women with self-perceived thinning. [4] A follow-up study in menopausal women found a 32% reduction in shedding and a significant increase in hair count. [5]
Those are real studies. Here’s the honest read: they’re small, they’re funded by Nutrafol, and they’re compared to placebo — not to minoxidil or finasteride. Saw palmetto, one of the key ingredients, does have a similar mechanism to finasteride (it mildly inhibits DHT production), just weaker.
My take: it’s not nothing, but it’s not everything. If your hair loss is driven by nutritional gaps or hormonal stress, it may genuinely help. If you have significant androgenetic alopecia, it’s probably not enough on its own.
PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) — Worth Knowing About
PRP involves taking concentrated growth factors from your own blood and injecting them into the scalp. This is done by dermatologists and medical spas — not salons. I mention it because clients ask, and the evidence is actually meaningful here.
A 2025 meta-analysis covering 43 randomized controlled trials found that PRP improves hair density and reduces hair loss with moderate clinical evidence. [6] PRP combined with minoxidil outperformed either treatment alone. Results require maintenance sessions and it’s not a cure, but this is one of the injectable options with real research behind it.
Peptide Injections — Interesting, Not Yet Proven
Copper peptide (GHK-Cu) injections — delivered as scalp mesotherapy — are increasingly offered at aesthetic clinics. The mechanism makes biological sense: GHK-Cu has been shown to stimulate follicle activity and improve scalp circulation. [7] But the clinical evidence for the injectable form specifically is limited — mostly small case series, not large randomized controlled trials. Topical GHK-Cu has a bit more backing than injectable.
This is a space I’m watching. It’s not snake oil. It’s also not ready to be called proven. If a provider is recommending it, ask them to show you the research.
Rosemary Oil — The Natural Option That Actually Has a Study
I love this one because it surprises people. A 2015 randomized trial published in SKINmed compared rosemary oil directly to minoxidil 2% in 100 participants over six months. [8] At the end of the study, hair counts were not significantly different between the two groups. Scalp itching was actually more common in the minoxidil group.
The caveats are real — it was one small study, and it compared to the 2% minoxidil formulation, not the stronger 5% that’s more commonly recommended. But it’s a legitimate published finding. If you’re looking for a low-risk addition to your scalp routine with some science behind it, rosemary oil is worth considering.
What Doesn’t Have Good Evidence
Let me be straightforward about a few popular ones:
Biotin: Only helps if you’re actually deficient. There’s no clinical evidence that extra biotin improves hair growth in people whose levels are already normal. Biotin can’t build what you already have enough of. Most people taking biotin supplements are not deficient and are not getting a meaningful benefit.
Castor oil: Popular, widely recommended, no significant clinical trials. It conditions the hair shaft, which is nice. It will not regrow lost hair.
Rice water rinses: A viral trend with zero rigorous human studies behind it.
Caffeine shampoos: There’s some interesting lab data — caffeine can extend the anagen phase in isolated follicle cells — but the leap from a test tube to meaningful results through a rinse-off product on a live scalp hasn’t been proven in well-designed human trials.
None of these will hurt you. I’m not saying don’t use them. I’m saying don’t let them replace something that might actually work while your hair loss progresses. Anecdote is not a clinical trial.
When to Go See a Dermatologist
A scalp analysis with me is a starting point, not an endpoint. Please see a dermatologist if:
- Your shedding is sudden, severe, or happening in patches rather than diffusely
- You notice smooth bald spots — this can be alopecia areata, an autoimmune condition
- Your scalp is persistently inflamed, tender, or feels like it’s scarring
- Hormonal changes may be a factor — thyroid issues, PCOS, perimenopause
- You’ve worked on the lifestyle basics and shedding hasn’t improved in four to six months
- You’re thinking about prescription treatment
A trichologist is another option worth knowing about — they specialize specifically in hair and scalp and can run more detailed diagnostics than a general dermatologist sometimes will.
Here’s What I’d Tell You If You Were Sitting in My Chair
Hair loss is common, often temporary, and almost always more manageable than it feels when you’re in the thick of it. The worst thing you can do is either ignore it or throw every product on the market at it without understanding what’s actually going on.
Start with the basics. Look honestly at your stress levels, your diet, and your styling habits. Get bloodwork done. When you’re reading about a product, ask whether there are published studies, who funded them, and what they were compared against. There’s a big difference between “clients loved it” and “this was tested in a controlled trial.”
I’ll never claim to have all the answers — I’m always learning too. New research comes out, our understanding shifts, and what we knew five years ago isn’t always what we know today. That’s just how science works. But I’m a hair nerd through and through, and staying on top of this stuff is something I genuinely love doing. Growing alongside my clients is part of the job.
If you want to sit down, talk through what you’re seeing, and get a real look at your scalp — that’s exactly what I’m here for. Book a scalp analysis at THE GILDED EDGE and let’s figure out what’s actually going on together.
Sources & References
- American Academy of Dermatology Association. Hair loss: who gets and causes. AAD.org.
- International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery. Minoxidil: Formulation, Dosage & Side-Effects. ISHRS.org.
- Cleveland Clinic. Male and Female Pattern Hair Loss: A Guide to Treatment. Cleveland Clinic Consult QD.
- Ablon G, Kogan S. A Six-Month, Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study Evaluating the Safety and Efficacy of a Nutraceutical Supplement for Promoting Hair Growth in Women With Self-Perceived Thinning Hair. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(5):558–565. jddonline.com
- Nutrafol. New Peer-Reviewed Study Adds to Clinical Evidence Showing Nutrafol Improves Hair Growth in Women. prnewswire.com. 2026.
- Springer Nature / Dermatology and Therapy. Platelet-Rich Plasma in the Management of Alopecia: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Clinical Evidence. 2025.
- Pure Peptide Clinic. Peptides for Hair Growth: What Actually Works and What the Research Shows.
- Panahi Y, Taghizadeh M, Marzony ET, Sahebkar A. Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial. SKINmed. 2015;13(1):15–21. PubMed
Ready to put this into practice? Book with Kara at The GILDED EDGE.